Beginning with their June issues, the editors of the 19 international editions of Vogue magazine have made a pact to stop using models under age 16 or those who, from the viewpoint of the editors, appear to have an eating disorder.
In a somewhat unusual announcement, unusual in that the magazines are wading into a controversial issue, the Condé Nast International chairman, Jonathan Newhouse, said on Thursday, “Vogue editors around the world want the magazines to reflect their commitment to the health of the models who appear on the pages and the well-being of their readers.”
For decades, fashion magazines have been criticized for upholding an unrealistic standard of beauty, and even more so with the widespread use of digital retouching that often results in images of models and celebrities that have no basis in reality. While Vogue editors like Anna Wintour, of the American edition, and Franca Sozzani, of Italy, have participated in recent efforts by the Council of Fashion Designers of America to promote healthier behavior in the modeling industry, the magazines have not typically issued their own standards.
The fashion council released its own guidelines to designers and modeling agencies last season, asking them not to use models younger than 16 on their runways, and most have complied. The designer Marc Jacobs, however, disagreed with the council on that point and did use some models under that age, represented by Ford Models, in his show.
The Vogue announcement included the following six-point pact.
“1. We will not knowingly work with models under the age of 16 or who appear to have an eating disorder. We will work with models who, in our view, are healthy and help to promote a healthy body image.
“2. We will ask agents not to knowingly send us underage girls and casting directors to check IDs when casting shoots, shows and campaigns.
“3. We will help to structure mentoring programs where more mature models are able to give advice and guidance to younger girls, and we will help to raise industry-wide awareness through education, as has been integral to the Council of Fashion Designers of America Health Initiative.
“4. We will encourage producers to create healthy backstage working conditions, including healthy food options and a respect for privacy. We will encourage casting agents not to keep models unreasonably late.
“5. We encourage designers to consider the consequences of unrealistically small sample sizes of their clothing, which limits the range of women who can be photographed in their clothes, and encourages the use of extremely thin models.
“6. We will be ambassadors for the message of healthy body image.”
THE PROTECTION OF MINOR MODELS WORKING IN NEW YORK
Today was a very important day for models who work in the fashion capital of New York. Today New York Senator Klein and Senator Savino along with The Model Alliance announced new legislature likely to pass this week that will finally include underage print and runway models in the labor laws that already protect other child performers like actors, singers and dancers. This was something I’ve been speaking publicly about for the last 4 years, so it is particularly thrilling for me to see this issue finally gain the attention it deserves. I’m very thankful I was invited to speak on my personal experiences as a model in New York City. Below is a transcript of my speech:
Hello - My name is Coco Rocha and I’m a model based here in New York. I’d like to thank Senator Klein, Senator Savino and the Model Alliance for asking me to be here today.
For me, this issue is personal. Like Sara Ziff and so many professional models, I was scouted at the ripe old age of 14. By the time I was 16 I was living and working alone here in New York City. During my 10 years as a model I’m fortunate enough to have realized many of my professional goals, though not without feeling enormous pressure to agree to demands and make certain choices that no young person should ever have to deal with.
The fact is, too often young models find themselves forced to forego their education and their values in order to pursue their career, only to wind up with nothing. I will never forget being 15 years old, alone on a set as a photographer tried to harass, heckle and even threaten me into taking a semi-nude photo. I recall with sickening clarity the first time I was told (in no uncertain terms) to lose weight that I definitely couldn’t afford to lose because, as this person said, “the look this year is anorexia.”
There were times as a young model when I was very lonely and felt an enormous pressure from the adults working around me to give up values and beliefs I held dear. Through trial and error I learned my rights and I learned to stand up for myself. I decided that I wouldn’t allow myself to be degraded or treated unfairly and I’m now able to walk away from that treatment because, firstly, I’m established as a model and, second, I’m now an adult. But what about the young and aspiring models? For children and young teens who just want to please, the pressure to succumb to demands from adults is often damaging and life altering - dropping out of school; foregoing education and their health; allowing predators, sexual and otherwise, to harass and victimize - it has to stop. And although the industry has tried self-regulation, it just hasn’t been enough.
That is why I am here today, to convey to you my ongoing concerns about the health and well-being of children and teens who are working in the modeling industry.
When it comes to protecting our children, the moral argument should override any perceived inconvenience of rules, record keeping or expense. That fact has long been acknowledged as true for other child performers like actors, dancers and singers who all enjoy protections under law in New York. For reasons unknown to me, this has never applied to child models. I’m thankful that this has been noted by both The Model Alliance and by Senators Klein and Savino. I am thrilled that they are helping to correct this discrepancy by proposing that print and runway models under 18 have the same protections as all other child performers working in New York State. These protections are basic, necessary and long overdue.
I believe we all agree that there are natural human standards of how we treat one another and especially of how we treat children. On behalf of the many models I know and love, I thank you for all your hard work and your time. I’m confident that through continued efforts we can ensure a safer environment for the next generation.
Thank you.
(If you’d like to read more of my thoughts on modeling and the industry, please go HERE, HERE, HERE and HERE. Also be sure to check out ModelAlliance.Org.)
