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Vogue Adopts a 16-and-Over Modeling Rule

By ERIC WILSON

Beginning with their June issues, the editors of the 19 international editions of Vogue magazine have made a pact to stop using models under age 16 or those who, from the viewpoint of the editors, appear to have an eating disorder.

In a somewhat unusual announcement, unusual in that the magazines are wading into a controversial issue, the Condé Nast International chairman, Jonathan Newhouse, said on Thursday, “Vogue editors around the world want the magazines to reflect their commitment to the health of the models who appear on the pages and the well-being of their readers.”

For decades, fashion magazines have been criticized for upholding an unrealistic standard of beauty, and even more so with the widespread use of digital retouching that often results in images of models and celebrities that have no basis in reality. While Vogue editors like Anna Wintour, of the American edition, and Franca Sozzani, of Italy, have participated in recent efforts by the Council of Fashion Designers of America to promote healthier behavior in the modeling industry, the magazines have not typically issued their own standards.

The fashion council released its own guidelines to designers and modeling agencies last season, asking them not to use models younger than 16 on their runways, and most have complied. The designer Marc Jacobs, however, disagreed with the council on that point and did use some models under that age, represented by Ford Models, in his show.

The Vogue announcement included the following six-point pact.

“1. We will not knowingly work with models under the age of 16 or who appear to have an eating disorder. We will work with models who, in our view, are healthy and help to promote a healthy body image.

“2. We will ask agents not to knowingly send us underage girls and casting directors to check IDs when casting shoots, shows and campaigns.

“3. We will help to structure mentoring programs where more mature models are able to give advice and guidance to younger girls, and we will help to raise industry-wide awareness through education, as has been integral to the Council of Fashion Designers of America Health Initiative.

“4. We will encourage producers to create healthy backstage working conditions, including healthy food options and a respect for privacy. We will encourage casting agents not to keep models unreasonably late.

“5. We encourage designers to consider the consequences of unrealistically small sample sizes of their clothing, which limits the range of women who can be photographed in their clothes, and encourages the use of extremely thin models.

“6. We will be ambassadors for the message of healthy body image.”

Elle Brazil Cover - May 2012 

As a high fashion model I have long had a policy of no nudity or partial nudity in my photoshoots. For my recent Elle Brazil cover shoot I wore a body suit under a sheer dress, but recently discovered that the body suit was Photoshopped out to give the impression that I am showing much more skin than I actually was or am comfortable with. This was specifically against my expressed verbal and written direction. I’m extremely disappointed that my wishes and contract were ignored. I strongly believe every model has a right to set rules for how she is portrayed and for me these rules were clearly circumvented.

- Coco Rocha

 


J.CREW: Coco Rocha for New York Mag.

In my third video for New York Magazine’s The Cut Blog we catch up with Jenna Lyons, creative director of J.Crew, and casting director Julia Samersova (who also stars in E!’s modeling reality show Scouted), who tells us why a presentation needs models who DO NOT complain.

Two more behind-the-scenes videos to go. To see the two that are already out go HERE and HERE.

THE MODEL ALLIANCE

Tonight it was my privilege to host the first ever meeting of the newly-formed Model Alliance - a nonprofit organization committed to establishing a voice for models within the American fashion industry. Up until now, models have sadly lacked a formal voice within this industry. Though modeling may seem to be a cushy and easy job on the outside, for many young models the law (including workplace standards) fails to apply. Girls in their early teens are often pressured to work long hours for little to no pay. On occasion, these models, thousands of miles from home, are even pushed by adults to compromise their morals and beliefs.

The Model Alliance believes that models deserve the same fair treatment as in any other workforce. Their mission is to support the enforcement of existing child labor laws, give models redress for issues of sexual harassment and encourage a safe and healthy work environment. These are not extreme demands, they are basic human rights.

Both Vogue and the CFDA have worked hard over the years to improve the working conditions of models, despite the fact that it’s not their primary mandate. There has been quantifiable change for the better and there is no doubt in my mind that the Model Alliance will prove to be the extra push needed to expedite the changes we all hope to see.

Tonight was an amazing stepping stone in the right direction. As Jenna Sauers said, “If we’ve had a single goal, it has been to create the organization that we wished had existed when we were young models.” As I looked out into the audience, I was so proud to see models of my generation like Doutzen Kroes and Crystal Renn in attendance, and I’m sure they would agree with Jenna that we have all needed the Model Alliance for a long time.

 Two years ago this month I very publicly discussed my concerns regarding the industry in an open letter and concluded by saying: There are natural human standards in how we treat one another and how we treat children. There are those who continue to trample on these standards, but there are also champions of a better way.”  Today we have another powerful champion in the form of The Model Alliance and I thank the amazing Sara Ziff for allowing me to join the board of advisors. It’s Sara’s unique vision and passion that has resulted in this idea becoming a reality. For far too long modeling has been like the Wild West - an unregulated and dangerous place for many. I’m so proud of the Model Alliance and all the models who showed up tonight. It takes a lot of guts to stand up for yourself.

For more information - www.modelalliance.org

*Big thanks to Smirnoff Vodka for sponsoring the event tonight.

Setting the record straight - again.

The other evening I joined an interesting group of doctors, editors, models and lawyers in order to speak with Dr. Herzog, director of the Massachusetts General Hospital, about his work with the CFDA’s Health Initiative. Along with fellow model Doutzen Kroes, I had the chance to speak before the group.

Today I’ve seen some positive and some rather negative feedback regarding the parts of my speech that have been made public. With this in mind I have decided to publish my entire speech below - Coco Rocha.

I would like to thank the Harris Center for inviting me to speak today. I’m deeply appreciative of the research, education and advocacy you provide, as well as for your outreach program to the CFDA.

I’m sure to many in the audience, my industry - fashion - must appear to be something like the Wild West. Specifically within the field of modeling, a smaller part of that industry, we are essentially entirely unregulated and this is the way it’s been for a long time now. The models who make up this highly visual workforce are mostly teenage girls, many of whom are largely seen as disposable commodities. It’s no secret that there’s an immense pressure put on these girls to maintain a specific look and, for quite a while now, that specific look has been impossibly thin. Models know they have a shelf-life, and they know that if they can’t maintain the look, they will be replaced.

Often the pressure is very direct with some designers, stylists and agents in no uncertain terms, pushing these young girls to take measures that often lead to anorexia or other health problems in order to remain in the business a few extra seasons. I myself felt this pressure very early in my career as a fashion model. I recall being specifically told by someone of authority, much older and supposedly wiser than I, that the “look” that year was anorexia. He said to me, “We don’t want you to be anorexic but that’s what we want you to look like.”  For a young girl of 15 you can imagine how confusing and disturbing that statement was.

A large part of the problem is that models come into this business at 13, 14 or 15, before their bodies are even close to being finished developing. Often they are the tall, skinny girls in middle school, with none of the curves that they will one day inherit. Within a year or two these girls are developing into women and they are not told that this is OK. On the contrary, they’re told that they are losing their edge, losing money, and losing favor in the eyes of their clients, and so they struggle to take measures that will please those they look up to. When I was younger, many miles away from home, I turned to diuretic pills to lose weight. One day, I took so many on an empty stomach that I spent hours doubled over and racked with pain. At that time I promised myself that I would never again take such drastic measures in order to please others.

To this day I question how anyone can justify an aesthetic that reduces a woman or child to an emaciated skeleton. Surely fashion’s aesthetic should enhance and beautify the human form, not destroy it.

Why should there be a difference between being healthy and being a model? In my mind, the two should be one and the same. We demand and we legislate that our sports stars achieve success without the use of dangerous drugs and supplements that would otherwise harm their bodies in the long run. Why should we not encourage and even require that our runway and editorial stars also hold themselves to a higher standard?

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Coco Rocha Teaches the New York Staff How to Pose Like a Model

By James Lim at NY Mag

Once we learned that Coco Rocha lends her modeling expertise to agencies and new faces, teaching them the tricks of the posing trade, we naturally invited her to give us a private tutorial. When she arrived, our standard office setting suddenly came alive with the potential for major fashion moments. Not only did we learn how to get fierce in a bathroom stall, but also how to emote while doing it. (Hint: Reciting your vowels will contort your face to express various emotions). There was a walk-off with a mail cart — the key to killing it here is to only push it with one hand, while sexily mussing your hair with the other — and a rapid-fire round of poses in the elevator, changing it up with each floor. Check out the clip to pick up a few tips of your own, and also to marvel at how entertaining Coco is on camera (someone needs to give this girl a guest-judge spot on one of those fashion reality shows, already, at the very least).

VENICE - Behind the scenes.

Here is Americana Manhasset’s classic behind-the-scenes look at top male model Sean Opry and myself as we dance our way around Venice, Italy. Let me just say, there is a very good reason Sean is considered the best working male model around! We had an amazing time with an absolutely wonderful crew and I will always cherish this week we all spent in Venice.

JACOB - Sans photoshop.A few months ago I announced the partnership between Jacob and myself on their fall 2011 campaign with a new “no retouching” policy - I’m happy to show you the first image from that campaign! Does this mean I’m now anti-photoshop? Absolutely not. I know what a valuable artist’s tool it can be in the right hands. What I really admire is the fact that Jacob is trying to balance the scales a little by pulling so far back from what has been the current trend of total digital model manipulation. I don’t expect that all brands will jump on board and cut out photoshop use, neither do I think that it’s necessary - but I do hope that this campaign might help some in our industry stop and think about what the public really wants to see before they shrink another model down to an impossible size. Bold move? Lasting trend? We will have to see.

JACOB - Sans photoshop.

A few months ago I announced the partnership between Jacob and myself on their fall 2011 campaign with a new “no retouching” policy - I’m happy to show you the first image from that campaign!

Does this mean I’m now anti-photoshop? Absolutely not. I know what a valuable artist’s tool it can be in the right hands. What I really admire is the fact that Jacob is trying to balance the scales a little by pulling so far back from what has been the current trend of total digital model manipulation. I don’t expect that all brands will jump on board and cut out photoshop use, neither do I think that it’s necessary - but I do hope that this campaign might help some in our industry stop and think about what the public really wants to see before they shrink another model down to an impossible size. Bold move? Lasting trend? We will have to see.